Hidden where Herefordshire meets Gloucestershire near the Welsh border, Ross-on-Wye is a modest yet enchanting market town less than an hour from Birmingham by train. Known as the cradle of British tourism, this quaint town was the holiday hotspot of the late 18th and early 19th centuries, thanks largely to Reverend William Gilpin’s seminal travel guide, Observations on the River Wye (1782). His picturesque boat journey down the River Wye inspired a wave of travelers who found solace in the romantic landscapes of the region—a trend that seems to be experiencing a modern revival.
My visit began at the Hope and Anchor, a welcoming riverside pub from which 18th-century boat tours would set off, making it the perfect place to stay with my toddler during a trip organized by Visit Herefordshire. Ross-on-Wye borders the Forest of Dean, Wales, and Gloucestershire, inviting exploration into a landscape steeped in history and natural beauty.
Strolling through the town, it’s easy to see why Gilpin’s account captured imaginations. Ross-on-Wye’s streets are lined with timber-framed, black-and-white buildings and filled with charming independent shops perfect for a leisurely browse. The Market House stands as a central landmark, witnessing centuries of commerce and community life.
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Though Truffles Deli, praised for its fresh sandwiches and cakes, was closed on Sunday, we discovered Maggie’s Place, a cozy café just down the High Street. Newly opened and locally focused, Maggie’s offers a delightful menu with locally sourced ham, bread, and soon, crisps. The café’s inviting atmosphere, complete with softly scented incense and exposed beams, instantly felt like a warm escape. The ham and garlic sandwich I enjoyed was perfectly balanced, and the coffee—a smooth, richly flavored Café Au Lait—was the best I’d had in years.
Later, we visited The Royal Hotel, a grand historic inn once a lodging for travelers before setting off on their famous river tours. Perched on the remains of a 13th-century Bishop’s Palace, it commands breathtaking views of the Wye. Nearby, The Prospect—created around 1700 by the ‘Man of Ross’, John Kyrle—offers a stunning vantage point to witness the river’s horseshoe bend and the distant Black Mountains.
Our room at Hope and Anchor featured elegant décor and river views that captivated my daughter far more than the TV cartoons ever could. Dining there was a highlight: the menu boasted exceptional dishes, from whipped camembert brulee with fig chutney to a perfectly roasted garlic-and-thyme chicken supreme served alongside crispy roast potatoes, seasonal vegetables, Yorkshire pudding, and red wine gravy. The crispy roast potatoes alone were unforgettable, rivaling any home-cooked roast. Even my daughter’s ‘kid’s meal’ of chicken nuggets and chips was a delight, beautifully prepared and tasty.
The attentive, friendly staff added to the experience, making our stay feel comfortable and welcoming despite my little one’s picky eating habits. After a restful night, breakfast at The Pavilion—a stylish and bright café attached to the hotel—set us up for the day with delicious eggs Royale on toasted muffins.
Eager to follow in Gilpin’s footsteps, we explored the riverbank, aided by Ross-on-Wye’s Museum Without Walls app. This augmented reality tool vividly brought to life historical scenes along our path, including the old boat tours departing from the Hope and Anchor.
Though heavy rains had swollen the River Wye and flooded some paths, limiting how far we could go, the attempt to explore further felt like stepping into the past. Despite the mud and my toddler’s fascination with swans, the charm of Ross-on-Wye was undeniable—a perfect blend of history, nature, and hospitality.
Ross-on-Wye is a hidden gem that offers a unique glimpse into Britain’s earliest tourism history while providing modern comforts and stunning scenery. It’s an ideal weekend escape from Birmingham for families and history lovers alike.